Agumbe : The Wild Call

Written by : Radhika S Nair.



Expectation:

As soon as the first trip Wind valley was accomplished the obvious question was where next. And the answer sprang up as “AGUMBE”. The place was not banal to the hard-nosed AT’s , Agumbe is a rural village in Shimoga district in Mangalore which is considered as the ‘Chirapunji of the South’. Based on google reports Agumbe wild is a rich source of snakes and leeches. So our expectation was

* It would rain

* Take a pack of salt to save ourselves from leech bites

* Not to expect much in terms of accommodation or food as it’s still a village.

As our trips were planned for weekend, the schedule was tight. Hence bus was the best option to save time. Thanks to Kallada Travels for the safe and timely journey.

Reality: (18-Nov-2016)







The Road Map for Travelers.

With expectation to explore the wild call we met the new set of AT’s who would accompany for the coming few days along with other old dear bonded ones. One by one the AT’s started falling in and as usual AT’s theme for discussion was other trips and locations, to break the ice of unfamiliarity. At last after another night of uncomfortable sleep, we reached our pickup point “Mangalore” from where the traveler took us to Mangalore railway station where the last set of AT’s would amalgamate. By 7 we started our journey to the destination Agumbe, where the otherwise smart phones are just cameras except for the one with BSNL sim. From the base there was about 13 km steep climbing through the narrow ghat road which would have been a construction so inhumane once. Only a well versed driver can take you to the wild beauty as the amazing ghat roads with at least a dozen of hair pins are designed to test driving skills in every possible manner imaginable.






Simplicity at its best…

On reaching Agumbe by 10 AM we checked in to Mallya residency, the only dormitory option for travelers except a homestay “Doddamana” run by a group of ladies. Though we were not fortunate to find shelter inside the mana, we couldn’t leave without a glimpse. The authentic double storied mana set up with wood and rocks was perhaps a century old, showering propitiously as we stepped into the interior. The beds were arranged around the mid opening of the “NaaluKettu” plus the first floor which was forbidden to visitors like us. The pacifying and soothing air could smear one proficiently, chilling even without a fan. As we left with a thank you to the English speaking Women entrepreneurs of the village probably falling into the category of countries senior citizen’s, we glanced on the architecture of dignity that spills simplicity with a mental note of taking advantage of the stay later on our next visit.





Immediately after the homely breakfast comprising rice balls, chutney, sweets etc, we left for our first destination the “Onaka Abbey”. With a guide to accompany, we kicked off the trekking with the help of trekking sticks made out of limbs from fallen trees on the way. We were welcomed, embraced warmly by none other than the blood suckers. These leeches are so minute and spot like, camouflaging themselves in the ground and with throwing movements to stick to their food, which was Appoopanthaadi’s for the day.




The well laid track for trek - Onaka Abbey



Trekking to Onaka Abbey.



The track was clear as Agumbe wild is in the hit list for wild travelers since a long time. After trekking for about 2 to 3km through fallen trees, dried leaves, twigs and flight of several steps, and taxing to maintain a constant pace to avoid leech bites we reached an open end shaped by a group of rocks. On gaining some energy to compensate the fatigue due to the ups and down in the path, all strivers were ready to explore the hidden beauty. Yup, the assertion was right, the place had something to offer to any traveler with the patience to observe. Besides the rocks was a crystal clear water channel well protected by trees and rocks reserving the spectacular show for the unrelenting. The shallow mirror welcomes with seats of rocks sheltered by trees above for experimenting an experience of peace at the river lap. The current was slow and the water flowed uninterrupted pedicuring legs, chilling mind and body.

On one of the boulder seats in the river bed.

As we peep to see the destination of the channel it was blocked by piles of rocks and shrubs. One by one each started to experience the hidden treasure of onaka abbey while some others were busy lying at the edge of the overhang and spying down. Atop the rocks we have a view of complete greenery beyond the frame.

The huge valley of Greenery below Onaka Abbey.

Before parting from the place, with the curiosity to absorb the scene below, I went to the mossy brim with cavity filled with stones here and there. With extreme care and sense of danger I laid down, peeping underneath.

View of the falls from the Edge ..

WOW !! the view was just mind blowing. A huge miss it would have been if I didn’t have the intuition to step forward, ‘intrinsic beauty of the verdure’. The calm current roars as foamy falls,disappearing thousands of meters below into the ocean of greenery. My veracious inner call was accurate, but a little behindhand, so I withdrew myself from contemplating on the flawless sculpture that flow with mystique designed by earth for her lovers, as it was necessary to stick to the schedule. We left the charismatic onaka abbey recognizing that it surely had surprises in its deep pocket of the wild for any nature explorer offering absolute serenity. The way back offered a flight of steps making the journey a little onerous but that was nil compared to the experience that it can offer except the expectation to get a glimpse of wild creatures other than minute leeches.




Beauty of the wild.

Next in agenda was “Sringeri Sharadhamba Matt” post lunch including rice, dal, papad, rasam, vegetable curry and sweet of mangalurian flavor. As soon as we reached the temple premises, boys of age 10 or below encrusted us canvassing to buy a packet occulted by brown paper. One our way to the matt we saw many shops with sorts of jewelry, toys, ‘kolam’ [similar to rangoli in just white color] designers. The entrance reminds a temple from Tamil Nadu with huge ornamental monument-tower bordering many more small sculptures in the interior.



The Vivid and monumental entrance to Sringeri Sharadhamba Matt and we posing infront of that 

Barefooted visitors were roaming inside as most of the idols were enclosed in their respective chambers as it was noon, except that of Shiva and Parvathy worshiped in the same rock cut architectural block, but separate chambers with entrance for each. The sculpture has a thousand carvings which may be more alluring to eyes with archaeological cravings. In lucid eyes it’s an excellent piece of hard work laid by humans, perhaps a decade.




Shrine of Shiva and Parvathy.

There was a river beneath where the people carried the brown bag to. As we approached the river bank bordered with a dozen of steps, the veil over the brown pack disclosed the rice flakes, the food for the fish. As soon as the flakes touches the water surface there was a rush of dozens of big fat fishes racing for the food, splashing water on the spectator as a gesture of thanks.







Race for food, Survival of the fittest.

Watching the show was actually imparting us with another level of excitement that for some time we neglected that we had a sunset point as the last one in the list for the day. The sun was already red as part of the daily ground work closure activities. Yet we had promises to keep and schedule to adhere, so bid adieu to the aqua life and stone beauties for the final siren. On the way back a notice board demanded attention stating that the matt offers food daily for the starving, thereby throwing a spot of light in the necessity of social service.

Misty Sunset with no SUN at Agumbe

The sunset point was on the way to the Agumbe village and all along the drive we gazed at the sun requesting to wait for some more time while the former was changing darker, leaving the stage for the next competitor. As we reached the Sun Set Point, the sun was set hidden behind the murky clouds as a clear penalty, exhibiting the disappointment for the delay. Though the sun has already left the scene we went to the sunset view point for better view of the valley below which was ill-lit and benighted.

Panipuri Stall at Agumbe :)

 On our way back we had another ploy to be accomplished, that was to try panipuri from a nearby stall. But the flavor was not as expectation nor second-rate.The plans for the day ended with the dinner of chapathi and rice. What happens on the conjunction of rarely met homogeneous souls was obvious, garrulous discussions sprang up from all corners ranging from exercise, beauty, health or eccentric matter like negative energy or even a trip to haunted place post which we were forced to sleep as plans were scheduled from 4. AM next day. Those who could sleep after the discussions slept and others laid awake pondering about the topics and opinions contemplating, like a cheroot.

The first in the list was sunrise at ‘Kundadri’. It was inky but the traveler took to the foot of the hills which was only a few steps away. One by one the AT’s left the traveler as well as the somnolence for the hillock.




Flight to Hillock for the early treat.

As we climbed the steps, iciness in the air absorbed the warmth and atop we felt as if inside a freezer with cold wind that bluster from all angle nonstop, wiping all our agony and awe for future leaving the present in front of us a panoramic scenery to ingest right away. As the body and soul revive from the cool gust, we settled on the rocks waiting for the hero to commence his show scheduled around 6.30 AM.




Sunrise from Kundadri hills

The Orange figure appeared in leisure radiating slowly announcing halt to the wait by the onlookers. Between the adored and adorer fall nothing as the former beguiled the observer effortlessly. As the show progressed the orange transformed to a big yellow ball, radiating golden glow to anything and everything in its track awaking positive surrealism. As we stand in the pinnacle of happiness as well as the hillock, the village below beaked to life offering view of discerned verdure and paved ghat roads in between woodland.

As the sun begins the daily ground work.

AT's in the Golden Rays!!

On assimilating the panorama in our eyes and camera’s partnered with golden glow, we moved to the jain temple near Kundadri hills, another ancient rock cut architecture accompanied by a pond bordered by rock walls that was left open as there is no chance or may be nothing for thieving.




The unfenced Jain temple exposing the deity.

The adjoining Pond enclosed by rocks.

After the breakfast with mangalore buns,poha and sweets we left for the last in the list for Agumbe trip ‘Sirimane Waterfalls’. A set of sinking steps took us to the falls after payment of an entrance fee of Rs 10/person. The expectation for privacy can’t be met at Sirimane as it would be usually filled with families during weekends and holidays.

View from the foot of the falls.



As the fall tumbles spuming and thrashing every obstacles to the depth, there was an option to stay on the rocks to watch the show or take a shower with fellow AT’s relishing the opportunity in full swing. There was a view point with shade for visitors interested in spectating the fall from an altitude rather that from the foot. The fall had dressing rooms for visitor’s convenience.

We and Sirimane waterfalls.

After lunch from a nearby hotel we packed for the return from Mallya Residency. A comment from fellow AT urged me to try tender coconut juice from the nearby stall. But as the preparation was in progress the loaded bus arrived, waiting for the last set of passengers who made last minute plan to endeavor the flavor of agumbe. The pace of preparation improved as the customers too involved in the preparation, giving a chance for all in the bus to take a sip of Agumbe special tender coconut juice. On our return journey some of them dozed off due to lack of sleep on the previous night while others gazed the active and overflowing Sunday market. On reaching Mangalore railway station to catch different trains the AT’s, souls drunk deeply from the well of wanderlust parted mirthfully with tight hugs and the usual question ‘where next’. Agumbe was a completely different occurrence adding more to one self with experiences and opinions of women from varied backgrounds and framework rather than blandishment. We missed ‘Jogigundi’ waterfalls as it was closed due to a recent death leaving a token of tutelage for oneself while exploring suicidal locations. As per other travelers, Agumbe has another trekking location that involves footslog for a day, so a pause for now to restart for a second wild call later.

Points to be noted:

* You can either take bus or train till mangalore followed by a private vehicle to agumbe

* Options for stay Mallya Residency/Doddumana[homestay] as far as we know, may be more options are available a little far.

* If you like tea, try the strong tea available there.

* Try pani puri if you are not a huge fan of north indian pani puri.

* Try tender coconut juice

* Carry salt for the leeches

* Only BSNL has range in the area

“Follow your instincts and interests, carve a path for yourself, let critics blabber.
  Wrinkle your skin not your soul, for me travel was the catalyst”

Radz