My Date with the Valley of Flowers - A Blissful Trek that will Remain Etched Forever

Write up by : Asha  Purushothaman

I am just back from the experience of a lifetime, a visit to one of the most beautiful trekking terrains of Utharakand, the Valley of Flowers and Hemakund Sahib. And now its time for me to stack up one by one, the mirthful moments and exhilarating experiences hoarded off in the eyes and imprinted in the mind after being in the beautiful land. On tour were seven ladies, a scintillating bunch, always jaunty and witty who made the trip wholly exciting and sometimes entertaining with their delectable sense of humour. Unlike our other trekking trips which were mostly to the southern states of the country much closer to home, this one had the allure of being to the remote North and to a very high altitude. The blissfulness and excitement that we lived through the entire duration of the trip, I don’t think it can be transformed into words even in part. Each and every one of our moments in the nine days spent on the Himalayan foothills (Shivalik) will stay vivid and vibrant in our memory shelf forever.

We were slated to meet at Haridwar but some grouped early from the Delhi/Dehradun airport itself and roamed around on their own until the seven dashing dames finally met and flew together for rest of the days. After the touchdown at Dehra our commute to Haridwar was by a taxi. During the ride, for the first time in life we heard about the persona of a certain 'Gangaji.’ She was none else than the River Ganga herself. Our taxi driver mentioned the name by which they all respectfully and affectionately call the hallowed river (guess at times she displays that arrogance too, being pampered and propitiated by her faithful folk).

We started off to Govindghat, our first halting point in the trek to the Valley of flowers. A 11+ hour strenuously long journey through dangerously steep roads, where road and gorges play hide and seek as they follow each other. We could very well anticipate what was in store when right at the beginning itself our driver made it clear that he won't drive after 7PM and to restrict driving at night, no lighting will be provided with. But on a terrain where landslides make and mar roads lading to frequent roadblocks, time is a luxury to have on your side. Men from the Border Road Organization (BRO) are handling the traffic on these roads and a big salute goes to them for maintaining equilibrium in the midst of the chaos around. 

They are untiring in their efforts to clear the rubbles and remove obstructions using their well equipped vehicles, reinstating a way for the long line of passenger vehicles. As we climbed uphill along NH58, we travelled past all the five Prayags, but no one dared to ask to make a stop. It would only have delayed as in reaching our destination which was not only far but treacherously high too. Our driver promised us to stop and show what we missed on the way back. To our huge surprise, in one of the turnings before Pipalakotti, we saw a board in Malayalam that said Devabhoomiyilottu swagatham (welcome to the land of the devas). 

Our Malayali minds thought of stopping and taking a snap but it was darkness already and night had slowly started descending. So we decided to postpone the photo session while returning. As night creeped in, all of us sat silent in awe, the only sound we could hear was the roar of Alakananda. She joined us from Devaprayag and accompanied throughout our hilly trail revealing many of her moods. At times she roared, thundered, bellowed, sometimes weeped, wailed even howled. At times, she was a spectacle to behold, with drapes of water layers rushing past rocks and boulders. 

Near exhausted, we reached Govindghat at around 9:15 pm, some 3 hours behind our schedule. Alaka was so close to the place where we stayed and she lullabied us to a peaceful sleep. The next morning we woke up to witness a jaw dropping sight. The morning view was supremely enrapturing, the Himalayas soaring aloft and the mist weaving intricate patterns through the hills of Shivalik, laced up with lush trees. The splendorous sight simply swept us away and all of us fell head over heels for the Himalayas.

From Govindghat onwards we could see mountain people (Pahadis). Though Nature forcibly kept them on the periphery of human existence all these years and for no fault of them, they remain a spirited and hardworking folk who relentlessly fight for their lives. Riding ponies/mules, carrying luggages or even owners of the luggage. The better off among them will be drivers, mostly riding Mahindra Maxi, Force Jeep, Tata Sumo, very rarely Scorpios too. It is quite incredible to see these Pahadis carrying weights two or three times more than their bodyweight. But it can also present you with a sad picture when you see one human carrying another to make his ends meet. The effect of their daily toil could be observed in their physique. Still in the forties, they all looked stooping and very aged. But these signs of early aging haven’t robbed them off their radiant smiles. Even in the daily struggle for life they looked content and happy, at peace with their existence.

Next day we trekked further up to Gangria/Govinddham (9 kms, altitude 9300 feet approximately). Rani and Laly, the two healthy ponies ambled along lugging off our bags. Gangria was the second and final halting base before our Valley of Flowers trek. Here we came touchingly close to Alakananda. She gave us delightful company throughout the rest of the journey. On the way up we frequently saw Pahadi women carrying bundles of grass (weighing more than 45kgs!). They walked speedily in groups passing us cheerfully. On the path there was heavy traffic with trekkers, busy ponies and mules, men destined to carry huge luggage and fellow men, each of them vying for space. It resembled a crowded city road except that there was no vehicles moving. The animals were perfectly acclimatised to the terrain and we joked at people who opted for the convenience of a pony back ride. Pilgrims to Hemakund Sahib mainly opted for ponies, but a great number of them walked, some even on naked feet. There was one more option to reach from Govindghat to Gangria which takes you real quick. It’s a helicopter ride which is available if the climate is supportive. At Bhyundar we crossed Alaka for the first time. Our excitement knew no bounds. The views and scenes were beyond words, the mists swirled over the hills, the huge trees, the diverse flaura and fauna, the clear blue skies, boulders and cliffs.

At around 5 pm we settled down at Gangria. The chillness of the mist was piercing. Next day at around 7 am we started our climactic trek to the Valley of Flowers. But our climb was interrupted as we were stopped by the Force personnel. We were informed that in the heavy landslide that occurred the previous night the bridge across Alaka had been washed off. We waited there till men from the Forces completed laying stones in the course to ready a makeshift replacement. We had to be really careful walking on those stones as one missed step could have tumbled us into danger’s hands. An officer and some local men held and guided us to cross the splash. We can only remember the help from them with gratitude as without them we would never have been able to cross the river at that point.

With each step our excitement only bubbled over. The promise of our destination egged us on to climb faster. We just had to behold the sight of the heavenly abode of flowers. Once we reached the place we stood stunned in disbelief. The beauty was all consuming. Fairies of flowers must have fallen there to make it such a blissfully pristine land of diverse flora and fauna. I stood wondering at the pure love between sky and earth there. Our add-ons there included the Himalayan flying squirrel, a mole which looked and acted as cute as button, mighty snow capped peaks of Nandadevi, silver stretch of Alaka beneath.

Next up was the Hemakund Sahib. On the way we met people who were returning after visiting the place in the Valley trail. They warned us about the much steeper and more difficult trek to the highest Gurudwara (15,800 feet) in the world. But our spirits couldn’t be extinguished. As a necessary precaution we decided to hire a pony for the next day. But seeing the good number of visitors the khodawalas cashed in on the opportunity and skyrocketed their rates to three times higher. We decided to trek up, but after 1 km we opted for ponies to give a little respite to our burning toes and congested feet inside trekking shoes. It was a real rollercoaster ride on the backs of those ponies. We had to trust the animal but it always walked dangerously close to the brink. My screams reverberated the entire ride, and not even a minute passed without me calling the master of the pony I rode on. Master’s name was Shathrughan and Pony was Bobby. I continued to chant “bhayya, Shathru, Bobby anthar” throughout the uphill ride rather embarassingly. Animals going down and going up always had a confrontation on the congested path and often my heart came to my mouth. During the resting time for these ponies, we were got off their backs by being carried in hands, irrespective of one's weight.

At the Hemakund Sahib we got to taste the generous hospitality of the Sikh people as they do in all their Gurudwaras. We were treated with delicious hot food which injected the much needed dose of energy after the tiresome trek. We were chilled to death and hot food helped us save narrowly. We clicked some snaps near Sarowar Sahib which was not frozen at the time. Our time was well spent around the premises of Hemakund Sahib. Though we had paid for the up and down pony ride, four of us opted to trek down mainly out of fear, i swear we got the best sight ever in our trip in our return trek.

We experienced the grandeur of Himalayas exactly as what we had seen in pics, the glaciers appeared like pastries, the boulders and rocks reminding us of different shapes. We witnessed the peek-a-boo with the mesmerizing mist and picturesque peaks of Nandadevi, the cheerfully bluish hue setting the sensational ambience for the eternal love between nature and the skies. 

On our way back, as planned we took photographs under the Malayalam board, but the scene was different from what we saw on our climb. The place had a road slippage and workers were busy clearing off the debris. They looked at us in sheer wonder as we rushed to the board to pose under. That are at the time was very fragile and passing drivers screamed at us to clear off from the place. 

The Ganga arathis, the Prayags, I can chronicle pages about it, but I have to stop somewhere. Our Badarinath trip had to be called off on the way due to the road blockage resulted by consecutive landslides, a very solid reason to visit that place again. 

Last but not the least, a word about the power ladies, the six of them I was blessed to have with me. The free-spirited, calm and cool Sajna, the dauntless and debuting Deepa, our pet pea Ponny, Preetha the master cracker, loveable leapfrogging Lini and our motivation seeking Rumi Reshmi, they were the just the right blend of personalities to have bonded together for the trip.

Still the tinkles of the heavy pony bells and roars of Alakananda resoundingly echo in ears. Maybe they will keep reverberating inside for the rest of my lifetime.

Agumbe : The Wild Call

Written by : Radhika S Nair.



Expectation:

As soon as the first trip Wind valley was accomplished the obvious question was where next. And the answer sprang up as “AGUMBE”. The place was not banal to the hard-nosed AT’s , Agumbe is a rural village in Shimoga district in Mangalore which is considered as the ‘Chirapunji of the South’. Based on google reports Agumbe wild is a rich source of snakes and leeches. So our expectation was

* It would rain

* Take a pack of salt to save ourselves from leech bites

* Not to expect much in terms of accommodation or food as it’s still a village.

As our trips were planned for weekend, the schedule was tight. Hence bus was the best option to save time. Thanks to Kallada Travels for the safe and timely journey.

Reality: (18-Nov-2016)







The Road Map for Travelers.

With expectation to explore the wild call we met the new set of AT’s who would accompany for the coming few days along with other old dear bonded ones. One by one the AT’s started falling in and as usual AT’s theme for discussion was other trips and locations, to break the ice of unfamiliarity. At last after another night of uncomfortable sleep, we reached our pickup point “Mangalore” from where the traveler took us to Mangalore railway station where the last set of AT’s would amalgamate. By 7 we started our journey to the destination Agumbe, where the otherwise smart phones are just cameras except for the one with BSNL sim. From the base there was about 13 km steep climbing through the narrow ghat road which would have been a construction so inhumane once. Only a well versed driver can take you to the wild beauty as the amazing ghat roads with at least a dozen of hair pins are designed to test driving skills in every possible manner imaginable.






Simplicity at its best…

On reaching Agumbe by 10 AM we checked in to Mallya residency, the only dormitory option for travelers except a homestay “Doddamana” run by a group of ladies. Though we were not fortunate to find shelter inside the mana, we couldn’t leave without a glimpse. The authentic double storied mana set up with wood and rocks was perhaps a century old, showering propitiously as we stepped into the interior. The beds were arranged around the mid opening of the “NaaluKettu” plus the first floor which was forbidden to visitors like us. The pacifying and soothing air could smear one proficiently, chilling even without a fan. As we left with a thank you to the English speaking Women entrepreneurs of the village probably falling into the category of countries senior citizen’s, we glanced on the architecture of dignity that spills simplicity with a mental note of taking advantage of the stay later on our next visit.





Immediately after the homely breakfast comprising rice balls, chutney, sweets etc, we left for our first destination the “Onaka Abbey”. With a guide to accompany, we kicked off the trekking with the help of trekking sticks made out of limbs from fallen trees on the way. We were welcomed, embraced warmly by none other than the blood suckers. These leeches are so minute and spot like, camouflaging themselves in the ground and with throwing movements to stick to their food, which was Appoopanthaadi’s for the day.




The well laid track for trek - Onaka Abbey



Trekking to Onaka Abbey.



The track was clear as Agumbe wild is in the hit list for wild travelers since a long time. After trekking for about 2 to 3km through fallen trees, dried leaves, twigs and flight of several steps, and taxing to maintain a constant pace to avoid leech bites we reached an open end shaped by a group of rocks. On gaining some energy to compensate the fatigue due to the ups and down in the path, all strivers were ready to explore the hidden beauty. Yup, the assertion was right, the place had something to offer to any traveler with the patience to observe. Besides the rocks was a crystal clear water channel well protected by trees and rocks reserving the spectacular show for the unrelenting. The shallow mirror welcomes with seats of rocks sheltered by trees above for experimenting an experience of peace at the river lap. The current was slow and the water flowed uninterrupted pedicuring legs, chilling mind and body.

On one of the boulder seats in the river bed.

As we peep to see the destination of the channel it was blocked by piles of rocks and shrubs. One by one each started to experience the hidden treasure of onaka abbey while some others were busy lying at the edge of the overhang and spying down. Atop the rocks we have a view of complete greenery beyond the frame.

The huge valley of Greenery below Onaka Abbey.

Before parting from the place, with the curiosity to absorb the scene below, I went to the mossy brim with cavity filled with stones here and there. With extreme care and sense of danger I laid down, peeping underneath.

View of the falls from the Edge ..

WOW !! the view was just mind blowing. A huge miss it would have been if I didn’t have the intuition to step forward, ‘intrinsic beauty of the verdure’. The calm current roars as foamy falls,disappearing thousands of meters below into the ocean of greenery. My veracious inner call was accurate, but a little behindhand, so I withdrew myself from contemplating on the flawless sculpture that flow with mystique designed by earth for her lovers, as it was necessary to stick to the schedule. We left the charismatic onaka abbey recognizing that it surely had surprises in its deep pocket of the wild for any nature explorer offering absolute serenity. The way back offered a flight of steps making the journey a little onerous but that was nil compared to the experience that it can offer except the expectation to get a glimpse of wild creatures other than minute leeches.




Beauty of the wild.

Next in agenda was “Sringeri Sharadhamba Matt” post lunch including rice, dal, papad, rasam, vegetable curry and sweet of mangalurian flavor. As soon as we reached the temple premises, boys of age 10 or below encrusted us canvassing to buy a packet occulted by brown paper. One our way to the matt we saw many shops with sorts of jewelry, toys, ‘kolam’ [similar to rangoli in just white color] designers. The entrance reminds a temple from Tamil Nadu with huge ornamental monument-tower bordering many more small sculptures in the interior.



The Vivid and monumental entrance to Sringeri Sharadhamba Matt and we posing infront of that 

Barefooted visitors were roaming inside as most of the idols were enclosed in their respective chambers as it was noon, except that of Shiva and Parvathy worshiped in the same rock cut architectural block, but separate chambers with entrance for each. The sculpture has a thousand carvings which may be more alluring to eyes with archaeological cravings. In lucid eyes it’s an excellent piece of hard work laid by humans, perhaps a decade.




Shrine of Shiva and Parvathy.

There was a river beneath where the people carried the brown bag to. As we approached the river bank bordered with a dozen of steps, the veil over the brown pack disclosed the rice flakes, the food for the fish. As soon as the flakes touches the water surface there was a rush of dozens of big fat fishes racing for the food, splashing water on the spectator as a gesture of thanks.







Race for food, Survival of the fittest.

Watching the show was actually imparting us with another level of excitement that for some time we neglected that we had a sunset point as the last one in the list for the day. The sun was already red as part of the daily ground work closure activities. Yet we had promises to keep and schedule to adhere, so bid adieu to the aqua life and stone beauties for the final siren. On the way back a notice board demanded attention stating that the matt offers food daily for the starving, thereby throwing a spot of light in the necessity of social service.

Misty Sunset with no SUN at Agumbe

The sunset point was on the way to the Agumbe village and all along the drive we gazed at the sun requesting to wait for some more time while the former was changing darker, leaving the stage for the next competitor. As we reached the Sun Set Point, the sun was set hidden behind the murky clouds as a clear penalty, exhibiting the disappointment for the delay. Though the sun has already left the scene we went to the sunset view point for better view of the valley below which was ill-lit and benighted.

Panipuri Stall at Agumbe :)

 On our way back we had another ploy to be accomplished, that was to try panipuri from a nearby stall. But the flavor was not as expectation nor second-rate.The plans for the day ended with the dinner of chapathi and rice. What happens on the conjunction of rarely met homogeneous souls was obvious, garrulous discussions sprang up from all corners ranging from exercise, beauty, health or eccentric matter like negative energy or even a trip to haunted place post which we were forced to sleep as plans were scheduled from 4. AM next day. Those who could sleep after the discussions slept and others laid awake pondering about the topics and opinions contemplating, like a cheroot.

The first in the list was sunrise at ‘Kundadri’. It was inky but the traveler took to the foot of the hills which was only a few steps away. One by one the AT’s left the traveler as well as the somnolence for the hillock.




Flight to Hillock for the early treat.

As we climbed the steps, iciness in the air absorbed the warmth and atop we felt as if inside a freezer with cold wind that bluster from all angle nonstop, wiping all our agony and awe for future leaving the present in front of us a panoramic scenery to ingest right away. As the body and soul revive from the cool gust, we settled on the rocks waiting for the hero to commence his show scheduled around 6.30 AM.




Sunrise from Kundadri hills

The Orange figure appeared in leisure radiating slowly announcing halt to the wait by the onlookers. Between the adored and adorer fall nothing as the former beguiled the observer effortlessly. As the show progressed the orange transformed to a big yellow ball, radiating golden glow to anything and everything in its track awaking positive surrealism. As we stand in the pinnacle of happiness as well as the hillock, the village below beaked to life offering view of discerned verdure and paved ghat roads in between woodland.

As the sun begins the daily ground work.

AT's in the Golden Rays!!

On assimilating the panorama in our eyes and camera’s partnered with golden glow, we moved to the jain temple near Kundadri hills, another ancient rock cut architecture accompanied by a pond bordered by rock walls that was left open as there is no chance or may be nothing for thieving.




The unfenced Jain temple exposing the deity.

The adjoining Pond enclosed by rocks.

After the breakfast with mangalore buns,poha and sweets we left for the last in the list for Agumbe trip ‘Sirimane Waterfalls’. A set of sinking steps took us to the falls after payment of an entrance fee of Rs 10/person. The expectation for privacy can’t be met at Sirimane as it would be usually filled with families during weekends and holidays.

View from the foot of the falls.



As the fall tumbles spuming and thrashing every obstacles to the depth, there was an option to stay on the rocks to watch the show or take a shower with fellow AT’s relishing the opportunity in full swing. There was a view point with shade for visitors interested in spectating the fall from an altitude rather that from the foot. The fall had dressing rooms for visitor’s convenience.

We and Sirimane waterfalls.

After lunch from a nearby hotel we packed for the return from Mallya Residency. A comment from fellow AT urged me to try tender coconut juice from the nearby stall. But as the preparation was in progress the loaded bus arrived, waiting for the last set of passengers who made last minute plan to endeavor the flavor of agumbe. The pace of preparation improved as the customers too involved in the preparation, giving a chance for all in the bus to take a sip of Agumbe special tender coconut juice. On our return journey some of them dozed off due to lack of sleep on the previous night while others gazed the active and overflowing Sunday market. On reaching Mangalore railway station to catch different trains the AT’s, souls drunk deeply from the well of wanderlust parted mirthfully with tight hugs and the usual question ‘where next’. Agumbe was a completely different occurrence adding more to one self with experiences and opinions of women from varied backgrounds and framework rather than blandishment. We missed ‘Jogigundi’ waterfalls as it was closed due to a recent death leaving a token of tutelage for oneself while exploring suicidal locations. As per other travelers, Agumbe has another trekking location that involves footslog for a day, so a pause for now to restart for a second wild call later.

Points to be noted:

* You can either take bus or train till mangalore followed by a private vehicle to agumbe

* Options for stay Mallya Residency/Doddumana[homestay] as far as we know, may be more options are available a little far.

* If you like tea, try the strong tea available there.

* Try pani puri if you are not a huge fan of north indian pani puri.

* Try tender coconut juice

* Carry salt for the leeches

* Only BSNL has range in the area

“Follow your instincts and interests, carve a path for yourself, let critics blabber.
  Wrinkle your skin not your soul, for me travel was the catalyst”

Radz

Appooppanthaadi @ Wind Valley

It would need a patience of about 10 months for a mother to get a glance of her new born, but my desire to unravel my thirst for exploring the nature demanded more. The many years of planning and waiting was already crushing me from inside and this pressure helped me to dig in for contacts with similar aspirations and after a series of enquiries and chains of friends I met my destiny and it was named “Appoopanthaadi”. As a note of thanks to all those who helped me to connect with dear Appoppanthaadi which I refer as AT’s , I was determined to sign up for the first trip they plan for which was happily a spot with refreshing greenery and mesmerizing beauty – “Rammakalmedu” and the trip was named ‘Wind Valley’ as we had a great pasture filled with giant wind mills to be the first in the visit list.

There was a little preparation for the trip as I have been prepared for this from the day I got my first salary. Train travel is one of the most comfortable plus affordable as any traveler would certainly know and obviously the first choice if time permits. Our train which was accountable for taking us from Trivandrum to ERN arrived. My eagerness and excitement to meet those new friends with whom I share something in common was overwhelming. But the meeting of new friends actually didn’t feel really new as it was just a re-union of some old friends who shared the same bench in the school where one was taught to follow your instincts and not to live a life to impress others. Though none of them were familiar, they were not strangers too and I was definitely not travelling with strangers. More of them joined on the way and the delayed train took as to the promised point where our traveler was waiting for the kick off at about 2AM.

As we had almost the entire team assembled in the bus we started knowing each other not with personal questions but just with a question of name and then about trips and travel. It was a group of positive and broad minded ladies accustomed to adjust and accept anyone who is ready to do the same. A group of hydrogen balloons all connected to the same string swaying high above in the cool air without any preset direction but a determination to get the extreme experience of exploring the unexplored. 

A distant view of the wind mills amid greenery..

As our traveler started climbing the high range we could see the nature welcoming us with its greenery, mountains and breeze which was politely asking us to stop clattering to hear its music in the background sponsored by itself. On reaching the home stay after all necessary replenishing we started our so called “Wind Valley “  trip whose first destination was the Wind valley itself. It was assumed that it would really blow our mind and body with the strong and icy winds but the reality was something different, the wind was mild, sun was calm and the giant wind mills even stayed a statue at the beginning followed with slight movement.

A close-up of the giant wind mill…

 But we were not empty handed because we were welcomed with the pastures that flow like river in the calm wind and the cattle’s blissfully with the privilege of privacy that the greenery was reserved for the AT’s for the time being. The nature was giving us a slow start to have the main for the yet to come. As the AT’s started to capture the slight into their frame for a glimpse later, the sun shone more mighty posing for his fans and the breeze changed to winds and the wind mill increased the pace. The valley filled us with fresh air and positive energy with every single touch. One could easily sleep in the meadow ignoring in the mid noon sun where the grasses grow unattended or unrestricted. Time schedule asked us to leave the valley which slopes to rocky hills on one side and steady pastures on the other, so as to move to the next destination.

Our next mode of transport was the most common in such area where earth surface is unsteady and irregular- Jeep, which could easily gear up to climb steep hills and deep slopes with untarred roads between landmass bounded with wild hibiscus  were path width is suitable for just a single jeep at a time. We were lucky to avoid any hassle in that form which could affect our schedule throughout the journey. As we reached our second destination – Aamakallu we could see large rocks arranged together below the sun who was at his full might. The huge rock didn’t give a clue that it had a 100 percent natural air conditioner arranged between them ,to experience which we need to go back to the age of 1 were we took the first chapter on crawling. After crawling for about 2 to 3 meters with flat large rocks above and below separated by less than 2 feet we land on breach supported at base by another rock sufficient to stand bowing to the surprise from nature. 

The grand entrance to Nature’s AC showroom 

The end point provided us two option either to lay between the rocks which served as earth cradle or the edge where we can swing the legs carefully noting that it is a suicide point. After enjoying the scene below we crawled back to the entrance pathway. When we had an option to crawl in the first case, the second gave as an option to stick like spider man to the walls between two vertical large rocks which opens to a gathering point yet other suicide point. 

Be a spider women, Stick to the walls.

The next in the list was yummy homemade lunch followed by visit to a waterfall 25 km away.

Waterfall atop the rock awaiting AT’s to join.

A closer glance of the thunder fall- Unknown.

Another jeep journey through much more complicated and restricted route took us to the “Unknown” water falls. Again with the privilege of privacy the fall was booked just for us . It gave us two options : either to play in the shallow-slow water or climb the rock to catch the fall before it reach the pool. The adventurous AT’s will not be satisfied with nothing other than the second option to climb those slippery rocks to dive into the ice cold water. Only with the capability to balance in flowing water and a grip on mossy rocks one can reach the fall where the water from rock falls like tiny rock particles capable enough to push to the pool. Not to ignore many of the AT’s has to bow to the earth before tasting waterfalls as the slippery rocks gave away. As it was Diwali there was an unexpected celebration too in the list where we had different types of crackers and option to try to light the same which we usually hesitate due to fear of getting hands burned. As night approached we prepared to sleep chatting to each other with hope to explore more in the coming day.

AT’s at the unexpected Diwali celebration.

At 5.45 AM after the morning tea the AT’s gathered for the next destination which was the actual trip destiny –Ramakalmedu. It was still dark and the path was not very clear as we started to climb the slope. The zigzag path took us to the peak after a climbing about half an hour. As we planned to settle to watch the sunrise our guide told us this is not the point and there is more challenge to complete the show. As we followed him, the path through assembled large rocks ended between two large rocks with sufficient gap allowing us to stand but not sit. The experimental movement didn’t end with crawling and sliding , now the most extreme for the first time travelers climbing 3650m high was hurdles that question our physical ability and mental determination. As we had an expression to what next , he said yes climb the wall of about 6 feet  to reach the highest point. 

That was really a ‘No way’ for many. But the courage to take the challenge rather than accepting the defeat without a trial was our choice. With little help and a lot of body balance and care we achieved it. It gave immense pleasure not because we could reach the highest point but we could prove to our self that it’s still possible to conquer the dream which hide behind the cloud of hassles. One by one all the AT’s reached the peak we could see the sun was waiting for us to settle down and watch the show. The site was gaining clarity and the snowcapped hills were exposing the statue of  “Kuruvan-Kurathi” .

Sunrise atop Rammakalmedu .

The far below village and the cultivation came to life from dark patches with the touch of the golden rays of crimson sun which mesmerized us with its miraculous beauty. The statue was contemplating the show. The experience of sunrise from 3650m was something new and special as the show was exclusive for us as we were not disturbed by any other team. The moments were captured for later cherish and we posed with all our creativity with utmost care as this was one of the highest suicide pointy available nearby. As we started getting busy with shooting there came the original owners of the show and the peak point daring us to leave the place or bear the consequences- a bunch of monkeys who were ready to check the camera sling bags for any possible foodies. 

Ahh the Real owners …

Carefully one by one we landed between the rock walls and proceeded to available nearby points. One among which was an echo point where we can lay down between rocks and speak to the nature which guarantees a reply. 

The echo point where all your questions get answered instantaneously..

Risk was a default partner for the all these points as these always end in an open space that will be a suicide point.  But each of them offers a unique risk of itself. On our way back we could see many more people arriving to climb the hill but the best part of the show was over and we were the only audience.

A distant view for the short pause at the echo point.

With the last set of homemade breakfast we bid goodbye to the homestay and rammakalmedu for our last destination – the statue of Kuruvan and kurathi which was relatively a short visit as there was no trekking. The couple was watching the miraculous hills and sun along with their Kid and a rooster. As they sit shining in the sun watching the scenery we may feel that the sun compliments them.

As the kurathi murmurs to her kuruvan staring at Rammakalmedu..

On the way back a glimpse of the earthen dam of Idukki was yet another fortune. As we started our return journey we got view of the same greenery asking us to visit again. I could hear the earth calling to explore the unexplored. Asking me to move out of my comfort zone, break the ice with the people whom I don’t know well and to put sincere effort to live the life I have dreamt all the time. May be a travel without a camera or mobile would give me a chance to explore Mother Nature without a mediator but leaving the responsibility to cherish this moments later with the capability of my brain. Without much words or goodbye AT’s left one by one as they knew they are destined to meet again at a later point for sure.

Marking my favorite quote below:

“Travel around the world or you will see only one page of an endless book of mysteries… “

- Radhika S Nair